A locals guide to Cleeve Hill Rock Climbing

From what I gather, climbing at Cleeve Hill is rather like Marmite. A whisper amongst the local walls echoes in my mind every time I climb here, "It's just a crumbling, polished outcrop", "nothing there but choss", "not worth traveling for". I chuckle to myself as I pull on a 2 finger pocket, limestone glistening almost European washed and my back is basting in the sun, now at full glare as it moves Westerly opposite the crag. "Suite yourself", I say.

"Rock climbing at Cleeve Hill is like trying to do hill reps on a scree slope"

I have no long lasting neurological damage from the midday sun however, Cleeve hill is no Stanage Popular. Quite the opposite in fact. It is loose in places, polished in places, half the height with a crag length that can be walked in less than 20 seconds. Who would want to climb here, when there are far more worthy contenders?

What the crag at Cleeve Hill does have that Stanage could never deliver, (apart from a scree slope on the walk in!) is a stunning Gloucestershire backdrop, where the clouds set the atmosphere and the sun is your host, ending the play with a spectacular finish behind the great Malvern Hills. Watching the sun set here, never grows tiring for me.

I feel very privileged to be able to call myself a local of a crag. Hannah and I moved to Winchcombe within the last year. No doubt that we will move again in the future. For this reason I have vowed to appreciate the Cleeve Hill crag and make the most of climbing it while we are here. For once in 4 years of climbing, I can train on limestone instead of plastic.

Josef top roping "In between" HVS 5b

Truths from myths.

How bad is the polish?

Most of the polish can be found on the three main cracklines, ranging from Severe to Hard Severe. These are steep and feel insecure at times due to the glassy nature of the holds low down.

Climbing style at Cleeve Hill

The climbing is described in guidebooks as "oolitic limestone". Lots of pockets up high, cracks and hard steep starts. Some lines are loose in places and take care with belaying from up the top and not to kick down rocks onto climbers. I am in the process of cleaning some of the looser rocks from the top of the crag.

Steeper than it looks "The Hand Jam" HS 4a

Many of the climbs have changed a lot since the first ascents. After conversations with locals who have climbed there for 30 plus years, many of the lines are a lot harder than they can remember. Over the years this has been reflected in guidebooks.

Can you actually trad climb on Cleeve Hill?

UKC and Rockfax databases are a wealth of knowledge but I can't help and wonder if a rumor has continued through the years, like Chinese Whispers, that Cleeve Hill cannot be climbed on trad gear and that doing so is the sport of raving lunatics fascinated only by glory and death.

The crag is mainly top roped, the descriptions are correct. Multiple stake belays at the top of the crag provide safe anchors for top roping or securing a belay for a second. Again, I hint, that Cleeve Hill can be trad climbed, and is trad climbed may I add.

Leaders, as always, will need to use due diligence when choosing a line to conquer. Some lines, like many climbing destinations, are bold. One climb  jumps to my mind, "The Easy". An obvious corner on the left of the crag. Graded at Severe, it is poorly protected in most of its length. Something which most Severe leaders would be wise to consider. "The Arete" HVS next door to this, is similar in boldness but with added looseness at the top.

Old school Cleeve Hill Climbing topo. Routes have since changed from weathering.

However, there are some little gems....

"Dislocated" E2 6a is one of my personal favorites (Feels more like 5c). It follows a right to left trending crack up the wall. Perfectly leadable, on a few good gear placements.

Starting moves of "Dislocated" E2 6a

"Niche" an E2 6a, the low down crux gives it a beastly initial section, a fun undertaking, especially while placing gear.

"Eliminate 4" VS 5a is fairly well protected. This follows a series of breaks up the wall, it helps that the crux is just after a good thread.

For those after a mini adventure at Cleeve Hill, two climbs spring to mind.

For those he'll bent on trad leads we have "The Girdle" a 2 pitch E1 5a. A well protected mid height traverse of the crag, never too desperate but with a distinctive crux. After only climbing it once, I can say it offered good value for money. My climbing partner, who getting ready to second the last pitch. Called for an abseil rope promptly after the heavens opened. I did snigger from the sheltered mini cave as he scurried down the rope drenched to the bone. (Sorry Jas )

The second suggestion in my opinion, is a hidden gem amongst the more looser buttresses of Cleeve Hill. Two stakes are provided at the top of this buttress and I highly recommend you approach the climb via abseil, take care on the slope however. "Slab and Crack" E2 5b, a very bold lead from the looks of things  but an amazing line to top rope. The line, as the name suggests, follows a slab to a roof crack. No prizes for guessing the location of the crux here but sufficient holds are in all the places you need them.

Dudes chilling under "Slab and Crack" E2 5b

What Gear to take

It is worth noting that Cleeve Hills main crag eats thin slings, large and mid size nuts. Pockets will also take cams.

A 30m rope is ample to climb on but remember to take extra long slings or a 10m rope for setting up top rope anchors. Using 2 or 3 stakes is always recommended. However, this is up to you.

Parking

Along the main road through Cleeve Hill are ample parking spots in laybys. Depending on where you park, the walk in can be between 10- 20 minutes. Parking at the bottom of the crag is frowned upon by the local Ranger and is not recommended due to the access road and it's "car sump killing" nature.

Area and welfare

The Rising Sun pubs beer garden is a wonderful place to sit and watch the sun disappear over the Malverns after an evenings climb. Food is served until 21:45 hrs. Ranging from Burger meals to Lamb shank. The car park there gets very busy on a sunny weekend or bank holiday however.

Times to climb

Due to its exposed nature. Winter can be bitterly cold up there with even the smallest of winds. The sun hits the crag just after midday usually. I have found it to be windy when belaying a second at the top but fairly still down below some days.

Bouldering 

There is some esoteric bouldering to be had at Cleeve Hill. I will update this page as and when I find interesting problems. Some problems can be found in the "Cotswold Bouldering Guide" from Bass Cubic.

A good Cleeve Hill test piece is the "Lower Traverse" at UK 6a. This covers the whole of the main crag. The original line wanders higher in places but a true low line, not using ledges is a quality training problem. How many laps can you complete? 

Click here for the Cleeve Hill Topo and Routes (climbing and bouldering). It is being updated regularly until complete.

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An evening climbing at Cleeve Hill